The Island

We drove across the highest salt flats on the planet, and eventually came to a mysterious mountain called Isla Incahuasi (Inca House Island).  It is literally a desert island in the middle of a place which was once Lake Tauca.  

Thousands of Trichoreus Cactus, very similar to the Saguaro, thrive in the harsh and rocky environment. 

As usual, my behavior was thoughtful and dignified in the presence of such grandeur.

Pass the Salt Please

At 3,669 meters, Uyuni is slightly higher in elevation than La Paz, but it is considerably colder with the wind chill and remote location.  At night, I wore two pair of socks, pants, two shirts, fleece jacket, gloves, and hat.  This wasn't enough, so I bought leggings and a hoody sweatshirt. 

From here, we loaded up into a Nissan Land Rover, the vehicle of choice for the salt flats.  Normally, they cram 6 people into one vehicle, but the other couple bought four spots, so Bev and I lucked out with a small group and extra leg room.  The three-day tour began with a visit to the Train Cemetery.  Huge metal carcasses, well past their life span, lay beside the track gathering dust, likely forever.  They were used to transport salt across Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina.  Now, they serve as a photo opportunity/playground for tourists who can't resist climbing all over them.

A 45 minute drive brought us to Colchani: population 528.  This is where the salt is processed for human and animal consumption.  25,000 tons are processed annually.  The process is fairly simple.  First, they make a pile of salt and let it dry for 5-10 days.  It is placed in a fire oven for an hour.  Then, it's crushed, and iodine is added (by law).  Finally, it is packaged by a teenager who simply scoops the salt into a plastic bag and seals it with a torch.  No scale is used.  We were told that if we wanted to purchase one, we could choose a bag that seemed heavier.

The Salar de Uyuni is one of the world's weirdest places.  It is vast.  It is empty.  It is enchanting.  The landscape creates a sense of exhilaration that causes you to run towards the blue sky of the Antiplano.  Hexagonal shaped salt tiles extend out like the brilliant white web of silk worms.  Nothing grows here.  It is just a thick layer of salt over an ancient lake.

Finding Jesus

 

The views out the bus window were spectacular.  This was good for two reasons.  I got to see the Central Highlands of Bolivia.  More importantly, the bus ride was over 8 hours, and it gave me something to do besides think about how I had to pee.

Everyone kept telling us that Cochabamba would be warm.  As you can see by my clothes, it wasn't.  The cold front that brought snow to La Paz also brought cooler temperatures to this region. 
                     
We visited the Cristo de la Concordia.  It's similar to the statue in Rio de Janiero except it's 44 cm taller.  They built it over 33 meters high, one meter for each year of Christ's life, and since he lived a little more than 33 years, they added a little extra.  I think they just wanted to outdo Brazil. 

Wild about the Amazon

Mechanical problems caused a six hour delay at the La Paz airport.  Finally, we boarded the small plane where every seat is a window seat.  It was a bumpy ride, and the stone buildings of La Paz faded away until we were flying over lush green mountains.  We landed with a thud on the tropical runway.  The airport consisted of exactly one room.  It only took a few minutes for staff to unload our luggage and walk it thirty feet over to us. 

The jungle town of Rurrenabaque is relaxed and warm, very different from the lively atmosphere in La Paz.  Tall mountains create a scenic backdrop, and a river snakes along the edge.  The town caters to the backpacker crowd by selling flip flops, sun screen, and pizza. 

We booked a 3-day tour of the Pampas, an area known for the wildlife.  It began with a three hour ride in a 4x4 Range Rover to Santa Rosa.  From there, we rode in canoe for another two hours of travel up the Beni River to our camp inside Parque Nacional Madidi. 

The first animals we saw were the famous Amazon River dolphins.  They are pink because their capillaries grow close to their skin.  The largest of all freshwater dolphins, they can grow up to nine feet long.  They are friendly, playful creatures who don't mind a bunch of tourists swimming beside them.

Our guide disliked questions, providing information, and tourists.  Despite this, we had fun and saw an abundance of wildlife. 

An alligator lived under the main cabin at camp.  It must have been used to people because we all took turns trying to touch it, and nobody lost a hand.

We encountered a large group of squirrel monkeys.  They are small and move quickly through the treetops. 

Over 900 species of birds live in the National Park.  The Hoatzin has a bright blue face and long spiky orange feathers that form a crest on its head.  They hang out in groups on low branches, near the river.   

Each morning, these tall birds walked around camp in search of large sticks for their nest. 

Although they are the largest rodent in the world, capybara are kind of cute.  They look like giant guinea pigs and are usually seen foraging in the grass or wading in a river. 

Getting High in La Paz

La Paz has the distinction of being the highest capital in South America.  It is built within a large canyon.  The city center is at the bottom, and most of the important landmarks are clustered in this area.  At 3,660 meters in elevation, exploring the town is a test of both the legs and lungs.

We stayed at a hostel just three blocks from San Francisco Cathedral, the most iconic of all the churches.  In the evening, we ate oranges and watched a street performance.  It was the typical kind of humor of the region.  In one skit, a man was dressed up as a woman, and another man attempted to get "her" to dance with him. 

The view is outstanding.  Brick buildings with terra cotta roofs cling to the edge of the canyon.  At night, thousands of lights shine in the darkness.

Plaza Murillo is a place where people gather to sit on benches, eat ice cream, and feed pigeons.  Several government buildings and a cathedral surround the square.  We arrived at the Presidential Palace just in time to watch the changing of the guard.  On the Bolivian Congress Building, the clock spins in reverse as a testament to their heritage and identity as a country in the South.  It is meant to encourage unique and creative thinking. 

Crowded markets line the streets and are separated by product type.  They sell everything.  It is possible to wander from the clothing market to the light bulb market in a matter of minutes.  The Witches Market provides various herbs, potions, spices, amulets, and incense as remedies to any affliction.  The most disturbing items are the llama fetuses hanging on the edge of each booth. 

La Paz is dizzying in every way.  Unlike other South American capitals, it is not merely a launch pad for the rest of country.  It is a great place to explore, eat street food, and experience Bolivia's culture. 

Titi Khar'ka

A three hour boat trip took us across Lake Titicaca to the north end of Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun).  The lake is massive and appears to be an ocean.  With a depth of 457 meters, it's the largest lake in South America.

A guide led us around the Inca ruins and explained the history.  One area had a small pool of water which had been filtered through the rocks.  It produced a very sweet natural water source.  Our guide grabbed a plastic cup he had hidden behind a bush, filled it with the water and passed it around, so we could take a sip.  Then, he replaced the cup for the next group.  We pretended this wasn't disgusting and continued the ritual by splashing some water on our heads.

We stayed at a hostel in the center of the island, near Playa Cha'lla, a sandy beach.  The Aymara village here is very small and traditional.  Pigs, donkeys, and sheep wander along the shoreline.  The only sounds are children laughing, donkeys braying, and the distant music of pan pipes.  We walked along the trail to marvel the clear blue lake, surrounded by the snowy Cordillera Real mountains.  Despite the cool air, the sun is incredibly intense.  This is the birth place of the Sun God after all. 

Our Bus is on a Boat

After a full day of travel, Beverly and I arrived in the South American country of Bolivia.  It was not surprising that the customs official did not ask for our visa application, yellow fever vaccination, photo, or hotel reservation.  He wanted cash.  He was particular about it too.  I handed over a wad of wrinkled bills with miniscule rips.  This was unacceptable.  He wanted crisp, new bills, still warm from printing.

We hopped on a bus bound for Copacabana, a four hour drive from La Paz.  The drive took us down a winding road through rugged mountains surrounding Lake Titicaca.  Small fields built on meandering terraces dotted the steep hills.  Here, farmers grow potatoes, quinoa, and corn.   

We stopped in a small town near the lake for a bathroom break.  When Bev and I returned, we saw our bus floating across the lake on a large pontoon boat.  We were only a little concerned because this is, after all, Bolivia.  When travelling in other countries, there are going to be times when things are confusing.  We decided to ask someone about this.
"Our bus is on a boat.  What should we do?" asked Bev.
I stood beside her, laughing at the absurdity of the question.  The lady sold us boat tickets which take people across to meet the bus on the other side. 
Of course.

Copacabana is a quiet, peaceful town where tradition rules.  The women wear bowler hats, layers of sweaters, a shawl, long pleated skirts with multiple petticoats, and tiny black slippers.  Slung over their backs, is a large colorful blanket with which they carry heavy items or children.  Their long, black hair is parted down the middle with two braids, tied together in the back with a piece of dark, fluffy string. 

The town caters to the tourists which flock there, and they sell everything one needs, particularly warm clothes.  The elevation is 3,800 meters, and while the winter days are warm, the nights are chilly. 

Dogs are everywhere in Bolivia.  They hang out on door steps, roam around in packs, and are truly loved by the people.  Although they are considered outdoor pets, they often wear sweaters and have beds made of cardboard or blankets. 

In the center of town, the white cathedral shines brilliantly against the blue sky.  On Sunday, we witnessed the Benedicion de Movilidades (vehicle blessings).  People lined their cars and trucks in front the church, adorned them with garland and flowers, and awaited the ritual blessing.  For a donation, the priest will bless the vehicle for its upcoming journey.